We have just spent a lovely week in Sulmona, a town in the central
Apennines whose wealth is founded on sugared almonds! They make the most
beautiful decorations with them (picture). It feels like we have seen soo
much since we have been in Italy so it was really nice to stay here a bit
longer, a bit of time to absorb everything. We had a couple of enjoyable
mornings in the market and a wonderful walk through the autumn countryside;
snow capped hills in the distance, walnut, almond and olive trees all
around.
The journey to Sulmona was interesting. We drove through the area around
L'Aquila and saw the aftermath of last years earthquake. Whole villages
have been destroyed: there are blue emergency tents everywhere still with
businesses operating from portacabins, and vast numbers of emergency
services in evidence. It is going to take years and years to rebuild here
and the drive was a really sombering experience.
It is only 10 days ago we were boiling in 30 degree heat but yesterday we
were chased out of the Apennines by a snow storm! We left Sulmona aiming to
head for a really well preserved roman town further south. Our route lay
across the mountains but so far the roads have been pretty good and
although the tops of the high mountains are snow covered they are at 2000m
ish, and none of the roads go that high. However as we climbed up the pass
the rain quickly turned to sleet. As the roads were very wet it wasn't
settling and so we carried on. All of a sudden we turned a hairpin bend
into winter, heavy snow and starting to settle. Although we may well have
been almost at the top of the pass we decided not to risk it, change our
plans and head south and coastwards. Last night we stopped just into
Puglia, and very noticeably are now in southern Italy. The towns look and
feel different and the roads are suddenly full of potholes. Fly tipping
appears to be a common problem and empty houses(once small holdings, now
swallowed up by large intensive farms) abound.
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